Eating out in Philadelphia is a real treat: try Chinatown, Reading Terminal Market near the Convention Center and the Italian Market for ethnic food, South Street for trendy and reasonably priced restaurants, and the ubiquitous street stands for soft pretzels with mustard (around 50¢). The Bourse building next to the INHP has a reasonable food hall. The South Philly cheesesteak varies from joint to joint around town, though logically enough some of the best are to be found in the Italian cafes around Ninth and Passyunk in South Philadelphia. And bear in mind that a cheesesteak is hot, a hoagie is not.

Alyan's, 603 S Fourth St (215/922-3553). Small Middle Eastern restaurant off South Street. Dinner from $7. Bring your own bottle.

Circa, 1518 Walnut St (215/545-6800). A stylish Center City restaurant decked out in marble, mirrors and chandeliers. Offers meat and seafood dinners with innovative twists for around $10. Great happy hours on Thurs & Fri; techno music later at night.

City Tavern, Second and Walnut (215/413-1443). Reconstructed 1773 tavern in INHP, familiar to thecity's founders, and called by John Adams "the most genteel tavern in America". Costumed staff serve "olde style" food (pasties, turkey rarebit) to a harpsichord accompaniment, but the prices, sadly, are historically inaccurate – from about $16 for dinner. Lunch is less expensive.

Dave and Busters, 325 N. Columbus Blvd., Pier 19 North, (215) 413-1951. Good food and entertainment under one roof. They offer a variety of games to play.  website 

Delilah's, Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Spruce (215/574-0929). Superb soul food, scatty service. Nigerian stew with cornbread for under $5; beans and rice even less.

Diner on the Square, 1839 Spruce St (215/735-5787). 24 hr diner off Rittenhouse Square serving staple foods (including a good cheesesteak) from $4 and with a circular soda and ice-cream bar.

Jim's Steaks, 400 South St (215/928-1911). Black-and-white-tiled Art Deco diner serving some of the biggest and best cheesesteaks in the city. Try and beat the record – 11 cheese steaks in 90 minutes. website

Lee's Hoagies, 44 S 17th St (215/564-1264). Downtown lunch place; a thousand variations on a single theme. The regular hoagies (from $3.95) are giant; the giants (from $7.50) truly gargantuan.

Montserrat, 623 South St (215/627-4224). Wide variety of fresh, healthy food, with a vegetarian emphasis, served inside or on a large deck overlooking the South Street parade.

Pat's King of Steaks - Where 9th Street crosses Wharton & Passyunk Ave. Another good cheese steak place. For directions and more info check out their website

Geno's - go here for more Philly cheese steaks. This is Pat's most fierce competitor as they are located directly across the street from each other.

Serrano, 20 S Second St (215/928-0770). Intimate Old City cafe. International home cooking – comfort food from around the world. Diners get preferential seating at the Tin Angel folk club.

Sonoma, 4411 Main St, Manayunk (215/483-9400). Pleasant, reasonably priced Cal-Ital restaurant.

South Street Diner, 140 South St (215/627-5258). Huge menu with Greek and Italian specialties from $6. Open 24hr seven days a week.

White Dog Cafe, 3420 Sansom St (215/386-9224). Trendy, creative food in an antique-filled room near the universities. Arty, student crowd; dinners cost $12–25